Heading north to the United States for a journey across the plains and snow-capped mountains, largely following the spectacular route of the Empire Builder, a legendary train that crosses the Rockies in a magical setting. First stop in Chicago, where the extreme cold requires unusual solutions. Here, the rails are literally heated by setting them on fire. Then head to the frozen expanses of Lake of the Woods, on the Canadian border. Here, the train gives way to another way of life: cozy ice fishing. But Philippe Gougler won't be at the end of his surprises because, still on the frozen lake, he discovers an igloo-shaped bar and a surprising tradition that speaks volumes about the local festive spirit.