The wind blows Wouter to the southwest. It becomes a day of confusing contradictions as he talks successively to the mafia, a painter of mosques and Orthodox monks. Wouter gets to spend the night at the Bigorski monastery after which he crosses the border into Albania. There he witnesses the meteoric development of the ‘Thailand of Europe’. On the pyramid of Tirana, Wouter is serenaded by a real opera singer and a hospitable family invites him for Easter dinner in Elbasan. He finishes in Berat, the city of a thousand windows.